This is the original...
Friday, October 31, 2008
This is the original...
Thursday, October 30, 2008
Wednesday, October 29, 2008
Tuesday, October 28, 2008
Monday, October 27, 2008
We are going to start with the simple Linear Gradient Tool and learn a couple of things. First of all, there are many different gradients that can be made, as shown in the graphic below of the drop down gradient options. We can make a two color gradient, a single color to transparent gradient, multicolor gradients, etc. Lets concentrate on the single color gradient to transparent.
Open a new file with a white background and we will see what we can do with the gradient tool. Select the gradient tool with single color to transparent.Now click on the left side of the image and drag across to the right side, we want a long drag mark so we have lots of transition from color to transparent.Notice how too the left of where you clicked the color is 100% Opaque and to the right of where you stopped dragging it is 100% Transparent. The transition between the two colors (Blue and Transparent) happens linearly between the two endpoints of the drag mouse operation. The gradient change will always happen parallel with the drag line, so dragging at an angle will rotate the gradient to occur parallel to the drag line.
If the gradient doesn't come out the way you would like, just hit CTRL+Z (or undo) and try it again. The gradient tool is basically a special paint bucket that doesn't cover the entire canvas uniformly.
Now lets step it up a notch and get creative using the gradient editor. Clicking on the edit button on the Gradient toolbar will pop-up the gradient editor dialogue box. Notice down towards the bottom of the box is a sample of the gradient with some squares above and below the gradient. These boxes can be moved right and left to adjust how the gradient fill happens between the endpoints of the drag operation. So if one wants a biased transition, dragging the center small diamond with bias the gradient. The end squares change where the colors are 100%, and I find it easier to not adjust those squares since it is just as easier to control that using the mouse drag operation.We can add a stop, or color definition point by clicking above or below the gradient sample. This will allow us to define a hard point in the gradient. This can be a color change, a certain amount of transparency or just give a little more control over how the gradient is built. The color is defined below the gradient sample, while the opacity is defined above the gradient sample.
Those are the very basic operations of the gradient tool, hopefully this helps and is not just more confusing. Still confused? Here is another site that contains a tutorial of Gradients
Wednesday, October 22, 2008
Focal Length: 25mm
Shutter: 1/3 Sec
Exp Program: Creative Biased
Exp Comp: O Step
Using layers we can brighten the picture and adjust the 'white balance' of the picture slightly, and obtain a usable picture...
Layer 0: Original Image
Layer 1: Copy of Complete image with 100% Opacity Screen
Layer 2: Selective copy of Distance building up Sky with 100% Opacity Screen
Layer 3: New layer, blue filled with 20% Opacity
Layer 4: Signature Layer
It would be helpful to include a brief description of your layers along with a before picture....
Tuesday, October 21, 2008
Monday, October 20, 2008
We have turned the foreground into a silhouette and have pretty much left the sky untouched; now let’s accentuate the coloration of the sky.This will be done by using a gradient fill on a layer that is mostly transparent, using a color that we want to accent.Adding a semi-transparent layer is similar to using a lens filter on a camera, the difference being we use the color that we want to accent instead of the inverse of the color we want to accent.Lets start with the blue.Create a new layer that is a soft light and about 50% transparent.Using a blue foreground color lets do a single color gradient to transparent in the upper portion of the layer. We want the blue gradient to stop before the sky colors start becoming orangish-yellow.Once you have the blue layer done, lets add another one that is red, same process but we want the red layer to cover the bottom half of the photo. Ultimately you will want some natural sky coloring between the two layers so don’t worry about matching up the gradients perfectly.This process has subdued the yellow, so now let’s bring some of the yellow back.One the yellow layer we will use a circular gradient that centers on the edge of the photography in the transition zone from red to blue.This will add a yellow flare to the photograph.Now that we have our color filter layers we can play with their individual opacity properties to adjust the coloring.REMEMBER, we are embellishing the natural colors of the photograph NOT completely changing them; so cautious that the colors are not over accentuated and made to look fake or surrealistic.Now that we have arrived at our desired outcome, let’s see how much each layer has changed the photograph.Clicking on the eye symbol under the layer properties will hide a given layer, this should demonstrate what effect each layer is having. Colors might be a little vivid and bold in the final picture, but it shows how drastically we can change the coloration of a picture.
Friday, October 17, 2008
F-Stop : F/7.2
Focal Length: 9mm
Shutter: 1/64 Sec
Exp Comp: 0 Step
Well, since I have not ventured out and purchased a high end digital camera, I have been trying all sorts of things with my point and shoot camera. I have yet to try portrait mode to see how that works for DOF (Thanks Cy), but here is what I was able to get using the macro mode on the camera.
I am hoping to play around a little more this weekend and will update my post later...
Thanks Cy for a great challenge, makes me go back and think about the basics of photography again and how to take control of my camera...
I borrowed a DSLR camera for the weekend and had loads of fun getting more pictures and playing around with DOF. Here are a couple of them that I thought were amazing...
Wednesday, October 15, 2008
Tuesday, October 14, 2008
Sunday, October 12, 2008
I thought of a lot of examples of depth of field where I tried to be funny and came up with the following... I couldn't think of a funny way to approach the subject. I guess I didn't inherit great creativity from my daughter... go figure.
Simply put, depth of field is that area in an image that is in focus - some say acceptable focus. The area in front of or behind the subject can either be in focus or out of focus, depending on the effect for which you are looking.
There are several factors that affect depth of field: apature, distance to the subject, iso, the lense you are using and shutter speed. What I will focus on here (pardon the pun) is apature because it has probably the greatest affect. Suppose you want to take a picture of your middle brat standing in front of a tree and you want the tree in a soft blur. This effect tends to draw attention to the middle brat (and everybody knows he needs more attention). You need to setup your camera with a large f-stop of f5.6 or larger (remember a larger apature would be f2-a subject for another blog). Then move in pretty close to the middle brat and shoot the picture. Focus on his eyes and everything behind him should be out of focus. That's it!
The sketch below will sort of give you an idea of depth of field in a quick glance:
Now for some examples. This first one was taken a f5.0 with a shutter speed of 1/15 and the iso set at 400.
The second example was shot at f16 with a shutter speed of 1/6 of a second. As you can see, it si completely sharp.
Have fun and practice...
Thursday, October 9, 2008
Some Original Picture Statistics:
Camera: FinePIX A900
Focal Length: 9 mm
Exposure: 1/180 sec
Exposure Compensation: 0 Step
For the above Vignetting, I used a gradient layer that transitioned from red to yellow (50° angle up and to the right), Square selection with a corner radius of 150 pixels and feathered at 75 pixels; the layer properties were color burn with 100% opacity.
For the above Vignetting, I used the same layers but just tweaked the layer properties; New layer properties were exclusion with 26% opacity, Multiply with 100% opacity and soft light with 8% opacity.
All this was done in Elements 2, yeah I know a bit behind the time on versions but I resist change (hence my political affiliation this year)...
Wednesday, October 8, 2008
Background copy set to Soft Light at 52% opacity
Saturation Level: Master Saturation at -95 Yellow at + 95
Brightness/Contrast Level: Bright at 26 Contrast at 22
--- and finally for the vignette, I used the lasso tool to draw around where I wanted ( I decreased the black opacity before doing this so I could see). Feather 75 Opacity 43%
Please, please feel free to critique.
Tuesday, October 7, 2008
* With regards to photography it would be great if you could share your information with regards to the photograph statistics. It could look like this:
Camera: Nikon D80
Exposure: 1/15 sec
* With regards to Photoshop share some information about what version you use and what you did with your work.
It doesn't have to be complete but I believe it will help us all learn by seeing how others are accomplishing their work.
If anyone has a question or suggestion there is NO NEED to wait until your given Monday. Fire away and ask those questions! That's why we are here!
Monday, October 6, 2008
Next, go to the layers pallete and open up a new layer. Press the letter D to set your foreground color to black. Now press Alt-Backspace to fill this layer with black.
Next, press M to get your Rectangular Marque tool. Drag your selection out with the Marque tool. For this particular one I went about an inch in. Now you need to feather your selection. Go to Select > Feather and choose a Feather Radius of 80-100 or whatever you like. Your edges should now be softened. For this particular photo I used a feather of 150 so the results would show easily.
Now just press Backspace to reveal your vignette. Then go to Opacity and lower the slider down until it reaches a look you are looking for. I realize this may look better on a portrait or another photo, I just wanted to show you this technique.
Alternatively, you could use the Oval Marque tool. Or, my favorite, use the Lasso Tool to freehand draw a more irregular pattern.
Rather than use black you could also set your background color to white or another color that compliments your work.
Just a few suggestions. Looking forward to what you create with the burned edge or vignette.
Sunday, October 5, 2008
When you have your screen a way that you would like to share it (such as a Photoshop shot), press the Prt Scr located just above the Backspace.
Now go to Start > All Programs > Accesories > Paint. When Paint opens up right click in the open space and click Paste. Now all you need to do is save it in My Pictures (or whatever you use to upload photos to Blogger).
That's it. Pretty easy I hope.
Wednesday, October 1, 2008
Some suggestions for post entries could include the following:
*How I did it. - This could be anything from HOW you took a particular photo to HOW you did something in Photoshop. A tutorial if you will.
*How would you do it? - If you are having difficulty accomplishing something ask for advice on how to accomplish a particular photo, exposure, pose, composition, etc. or something in Photoshop
*Present a challenge -
*Ask a question -
*Share a photo - and ask others to either critique that photo or ask the others to try their hand at something similar, this may fall into the challenge category.
Please keep in mind that just because you have been doing something over and over doesn't mean someone else knows how to do it. That is where we fall into our comfort zone. By showing others what you know, you may be teaching them something completely new. My thought that is by TEACHING we become better LEARNERS.
Each Monday one person will post the main entry for that week. Keep in mind that you can always prepare your post early and post it Monday using the "Post Options".